Gold in the Trash: Unleashing Hidden Value from Discarded Hair Products

Reemy Zeeshan Ali, the talented drag artist known as Zeeshan Ali, boasts an impressive collection of around 45 wigs. His journey in the world of drag has spanned over a decade and he’s taken his captivating shows across various cities within India.

“For my performances, each wig is more than just hair; it’s an identity switcheroo that allows me to transform into exaggerated, glamorous or whimsical characters,” Ali explains. Based in Mumbai, the right wig enhances both his authenticity on stage and empowers him with confidence. However, his quest for the perfect look wasn’t without its challenges.

“When I first began my career, wigs were incredibly hard to come by in India. Most of them had to be imported or crafted from whatever materials could be sourced locally,” he reminisces, recalling that sometimes this meant using wool and fabric to create his own custom pieces.

Fortunately, the situation has transformed dramatically over time. “Today’s fashion landscape is evolving, and wigs are no longer just for drag queens or movie stars; many straight women wear them too as a style statement,” Ali notes optimistically. Indian hair, known globally for its quality, accounts for 85% of international demand.

Kolachi Venkatesh has been at the heart of this industry since he began collecting hair 20 years ago in Avadi, Chennai. Starting out as a picker, responsible for gathering discarded human hairs from households and salvaging them from garbage, he quickly rose through the ranks.

“I learned the ropes from my parents who were pickers themselves before I followed their footsteps,” Venkatesh shares. The hair collected by such workers is classified as non-Remy hair, requiring more processing than Remy hair which is shaved directly from the scalp. Yet, it still holds significant value.

“These discarded hairs are often considered waste but they’re actually worth their weight in gold,” notes Venkatesh. Generally speaking, local pickers sell their collections to traders like him for between 10 cents and $1 per kilogram depending on the quality and length of hair. Shorter or damaged strands fetch lower prices compared to longer ones.

For individual collectors, the financial rewards are modest at best despite contributing significantly to a multibillion-dollar global market. “A diligent picker could collect anywhere from 1 to 5 kilograms in one day, earning around 59 cents to $6,” Venkatesh explains. “The pay is usually below minimum wage standards, particularly in rural areas.” He oversees the work of over 50 pickers.

China serves as a major player with its extensive wig manufacturing industry valued at approximately five to six billion dollars annually. While India exports most of its collected hair for processing there, Benjamin Cherian from Plexconcil believes that if India wants a share of this lucrative market, it needs significant improvements in its own processes.

“We require advancements such as automated sorting systems and sophisticated treatments for the processed hair,” he advocates. “Training centers to produce superior wigs are also essential.” His vision is clear; Indian human hair should not only be in demand globally but must come with a premium due to its high quality, natural appearance, and fine texture.

At the upper end of this market lies Temple or Remy hair. Much of it originates from Hindu temples in southern India where devotees shave their heads as part of religious rituals. Raj Hair International is one such major player handling the trade with a Chennai factory dedicated to sorting and grading according to various parameters like color, texture, and length.

“Remy hair boasts aligned cuticles that flow uniformly, resulting in less tangling and an incredibly silky feel,” explains George Cherion, CEO of Raj Hair International. They’ve even innovated machines designed to untangle the hair more efficiently while minimizing waste. Their business is flourishing thanks to India’s reputation for high-quality human hair.

Back in Mumbai, Zeeshan Ali dreams not only of greater accessibility but also an innovative design that would create a ‘wow factor’ in his performances. For him and many like him, the dream remains real: showcasing more Indian-made wigs on stage worldwide with designs that are both stunning and practical.

As we conclude this journey through India’s fascinating hair industry from rural collection to high-end manufacturing, it becomes clear that these hairs carry not just monetary value but a rich tapestry of culture, craftsmanship, and evolving fashion trends. Each strand tells a story of tradition met with modern innovationa true testament to the enduring appeal and versatility of human hair in artistry across borders.